Why make your own placemats?
Store-bought placemats are fine. But fine is exactly what they are: generic, limited in color and material, available in the same handful of sizes and patterns that every other household owns.
DIY fabric placemats are something else entirely. They are exactly the right size for your table, in exactly the right fabric for your style, in precisely the colors that work with your tablecloth, your dinnerware, and the season. They cost a fraction of what quality placemats retail for. They take under 30 minutes each to make once you have done it once. They make genuinely beautiful, personal, handmade gifts. And perhaps most importantly, they are reversible, which means one placemat works for two different looks.

This complete guide covers everything from fabric selection and sizing to step-by-step sewing instructions, no-sew alternatives, style variations for every skill level, and the care tips that keep handmade placemats looking their best season after season.
Why fabric placemats matter at a dining table
Before getting into the how, it is worth understanding the why because placemats are one of the most underrated elements of a well-dressed table.
What placemats do for your table:
-
Define each place setting clearly, giving every guest their own dedicated dining space
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Protect the table surface from heat, scratches, moisture rings, and spills
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Add colour, texture, and pattern without requiring a full tablecloth
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Reducing laundry placemats is far easier to wash than a full tablecloth after every meal
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Make the table feel deliberately set rather than casually covered
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Allow seasonal styling without changing the entire table linen setup
A set of handmade cotton or linen fabric placemats does all of the above with the added quality of being made from natural fibers that breathe, wash well, and improve with every use.

Fabric guide: choosing the best material for DIY placemats
The fabric is the most important decision in a placemat project. It determines how the placemat looks, how it handles, how it washes, and how long it lasts. Here is a complete guide to every fabric option worth considering:
Fabric comparison table
|
Fabric |
Feel |
Durability |
Washability |
Best for |
Ease to sew |
|
100% cotton |
Soft, smooth |
Very good |
Machine washable |
Every day use, beginners |
Excellent — easiest to cut and sew |
|
Cotton-linen blend |
Slightly textured |
Excellent |
Machine washable |
Every day, elegant gifts |
Very good |
|
100% linen |
Textured, natural |
Outstanding |
Machine washable (gentle) |
Formal, natural aesthetic |
Good — requires pre-washing |
|
Canvas/duck cotton |
Structured, sturdy |
Excellent |
Machine washable |
Outdoor use, heavy use |
Good |
|
Quilting cotton |
Lightweight, printed |
Good |
Machine washable |
Decorative, seasonal |
Excellent |
|
Oilcloth / laminated cotton |
Wipe-clean |
Good |
Wipe clean only |
Children, outdoor dining |
Moderate — use clips, not pins |
|
Burlap/jute |
Rustic, textured |
Moderate |
Spot clean only |
Decorative, rustic styling |
Moderate — frays easily |

The recommended choice for beginners
100% cotton or a cotton-linen blend is the ideal fabric for beginner placemat makers. Both cut cleanly, sew without slipping, wash and dry easily, and produce a genuinely beautiful finished placemat. Cotton quilting fabric is widely available in hundreds of patterns and colors. A cotton-linen blend gives a more elevated, textured result that looks far more expensive than the fabric cost suggests.
Pre-wash your fabric before cutting. This is the single most important step that beginners skip and the one that causes the most problems. Pre-washing removes manufacturing finishes, addresses any shrinkage before the placemat is constructed, and prevents colour bleeding in finished pieces. Wash, dry, and press your fabric before you cut a single piece.
Also Read: What Are Some Easy and Cheap DIY Decor Ideas That Only Require Items Around Your House?
Placemat sizes: what dimensions to use
There is no single standard placemat size, but there are widely accepted dimensions that suit most dining tables and place settings. Use this guide to choose the right size for your table and your needs:
Standard placemat size chart
|
Placemat size (finished) |
Best suited for |
Notes |
|
12" × 18" |
Standard dining tables, most place settings |
The most common and versatile size |
|
13" × 19" |
Larger plates, more generous coverage |
Recommended for dinner plates over 11" in diameter |
|
14" × 20" |
Large dining tables, formal settings |
Provides the most surface coverage |
|
12" × 12" |
Square settings, accent use |
Less common — works on small bistro tables |
|
Round (15" diameter) |
Round tables, contemporary styling |
Requires a circular template and slightly more skill |
How to calculate the cut fabric size
Add 1 inch to each dimension of your desired finished size to account for the ½" seam allowance on each side.
Formula: Cut size = finished size + 1" (length) × finished size + 1" (width)
|
Finished size desired |
Cut size (each piece) |
|
12" × 18" |
13" × 19" |
|
13" × 19" |
14" × 20" |
|
14" × 20" |
15" × 21" |
What you need complete supplies list
Basic supplies for a sewn placemat
Essential:
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2 pieces of fabric cut to your chosen dimensions (per placemat)
-
Sewing machine with matching thread
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Fabric scissors or rotary cutter and cutting mat
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Pins or sewing clips
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Iron and ironing board
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Ruler or quilting square
Optional but recommended:
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Fusible interfacing or fusible fleece (adds body and structure to the finished placemat)
-
Rotary cutter and self-healing cutting mat (for faster, more accurate cutting)
-
Seam ripper (for any corrections)
-
Pressing cloth (for delicate or dark fabrics)
Fabric quantities for a set of four placemats
|
Fabric type |
Amount needed (4 placemats) |
|
Single fabric, same on both sides |
2 yards |
|
Two different fabrics (reversible) |
1 yard of each fabric |
|
Interfacing or fusible fleece |
1 yard (applied to one side only) |
Step-by-step how to make a basic reversible fabric placemat
This tutorial makes one reversible placemat with a finished size of approximately 12" × 18". Scale up for the number of placemats you want to make. Cut all pieces before sewing for maximum efficiency.
Step 1: Pre-wash and press your fabric
Wash both fabrics in cold or warm water and dry on a low heat setting. Remove promptly from the dryer and press flat with an iron before cutting. This step is non-negotiable — skipping it risks shrinkage after the placemat is finished.
Step 2: Cut your fabric pieces
Using your ruler and rotary cutter or fabric scissors, cut two rectangles from your fabric:
-
Both pieces: 13" × 19" (gives a finished size of approximately 12" × 18")
-
If using interfacing: cut one piece 12" × 18" (slightly smaller — do not include seam allowances)
Cut as many sets as you need for your full placemat set before moving to the sewing machine.
Step 3: Apply interfacing (optional but recommended)
If using fusible interfacing or fusible fleece, apply it to the wrong side of one fabric piece following the manufacturer's instructions. Place the interfacing adhesive side down on the wrong side of the fabric, cover with a pressing cloth, and press with a hot iron for 10–15 seconds per section. Allow to cool before handling.
Interfacing adds body, structure, and slight heat resistance to the finished placemat, particularly valuable if the placemat will be used under hot dishes.
Step 4: Pin the two fabric pieces together
Place your two fabric pieces right sides together, the sides you want to face outward should be facing each other on the inside. Line up all four edges as precisely as possible and pin or clip around the entire perimeter. Leave a gap of 3–4 inches along one short side unpin ned this is the turning gap that you will use to flip the placemat right side out.
Mark both ends of the turning gap clearly with a pin or fabric marker so you do not accidentally sew over it.
Step 5: Sew around the perimeter
Take your pinned placemat to the sewing machine. Using a ½" seam allowance, sew around the entire perimeter of the placemat, starting and stopping at your marked turning gap, backstitching at the beginning and end to secure. Keep your seam allowance consistent by using the edge of the presser foot as a guide.
At each corner: stop with the needle in the down position ½" from the edge. Lift the presser foot, rotate the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing. This creates a sharp, clean corner on the finished placemat.
Step 6: Clip the corners
Using fabric scissors, clip each corner of the placemat diagonally, cutting across the corner of the seam allowance close to (but not through) the stitching line. Clipping removes bulk from the corner and allows it to lie flat and square when turned right side out.
Step 7: Turn the right side out and press
Reach through the turning gap and pull the placemat's right side out. Use a chopstick, blunt pencil, or bone folder to gently push the corners out from the inside until they are square and crisp. Press the placemat completely flat with a hot iron, turn the raw edges of the turning gap inward, and press them flat so the gap is ready to close.
Step 8: Topstitch around the perimeter
Return the placemat to the sewing machine. Starting at one corner, topstitch ⅛" from the edge all the way around the entire perimeter of the placemat in one continuous line of stitching. This closes the turning gap, secures the folded edges, and gives the placemat a clean, professional finished edge.
For a more decorative finish, add a second row of topstitching ½" from the outer edge parallel to the first line. This is a simple way to add visual detail with no additional skill required.
Step 9: Press the finished placemat
Give the completed placemat a final press with a hot iron on both sides. This is the step that makes the difference between a homemade-looking placemat and a genuinely polished one: pressing sets the stitching, flattens the seams, and gives the placemat a crisp, clean finish.
Read More: What Is the Best Way to Choose a Table for a Small Dining Area?
Style variations of different placemat types to make
Once you have mastered the basic reversible placemat, here are four variations worth exploring:
Style variation comparison
|
Style |
Skill level |
Extra materials needed |
What it adds |
|
Basic reversible |
Beginner |
None |
Two looks in one placemat |
|
Quilted placemat |
Intermediate |
Batting, walking foot |
Heat resistance, texture, thickness |
|
Rounded corner placemat |
Beginner |
Circular template (bowl or plate) |
Softer, more contemporary look |
|
Patchwork placemat |
Intermediate |
Multiple fabric pieces |
Colour blocking, pattern mixing |
|
Mitered border placemat |
Advanced |
Contrast border fabric |
Formal, professional finish |
The quilted placemat
A quilted placemat adds a layer of batting between the two fabric pieces before sewing — creating a thicker, more heat-resistant, and more visually interesting placemat. The steps are identical to the basic version with one addition: after applying interfacing, layer the batting between the wrong sides of both fabric pieces and quilt through all three layers with your sewing machine before sewing the perimeter.
Quilting lines can be straight (diagonal, horizontal, or in a grid pattern) or free-motion. Simple diagonal lines spaced 1 inch apart create a classic quilted texture with minimal skill required.
The rounded corner placemat
For a contemporary, softer look, round all four corners of your placemat. Use a small plate, mug, or circular template to trace a curve onto each corner before cutting. Cut all pieces with the rounded template, then sew and turn as normal. Rounded corners require slightly more care when turning and pressing, but are otherwise identical in construction.
No-sew placemat options
For crafters who do not have a sewing machine, no-sew placemats are entirely achievable:
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Fusible webbing method: Cut two fabric pieces to the finished size. Apply fusible webbing tape to the edges of one piece, layer the second piece on top, and press with a hot iron to bond the edges together. Finish the edge with fabric glue if needed.
-
Fabric glue method: Apply fabric glue around the perimeter of one piece, fold the seam allowance under, and press the second piece firmly on top. Allow to cure completely before use.
-
Fringe and tie method: Cut a single piece of fabric, use pinking shears to trim the edges, and pull a few threads on each side to create a fringe. Works beautifully with linen and cotton fabrics.
Colour and fabric combination ideas
One of the greatest pleasures of making your own placemats is complete creative control over colour and fabric. Here are combination ideas for every season and occasion:
Seasonal placemat colour guide
|
Season |
Fabric combination |
Colour palette |
|
Spring |
Floral quilting cotton + solid sage green |
Soft green, blush, warm white |
|
Summer |
Striped cotton + natural linen |
Cobalt blue, coral, warm white |
|
Autumn |
Textured linen + rust cotton |
Burnt orange, deep rust, warm amber |
|
Winter/holiday |
Plaid cotton + deep green linen |
Forest green, cranberry, cream |
|
Year-round |
Natural linen + white cotton |
Natural, ivory, white — works always |

Colour pairing guide for reversible placemats
Since a reversible placemat has two sides, choose colours that work independently and also complement each other when both are visible on the table:
-
Sage green + dusty rose — the most popular complementary combination
-
Navy + warm ivory — classic, formal, works year-round
-
Terracotta + natural linen — warm, earthy, outdoor-friendly
-
Mustard yellow + deep teal — bold, seasonal, autumn entertaining
-
White + soft grey — minimal, contemporary, suits every dinnerware style
Caring for your handmade fabric placemats
Handmade cotton and linen placemats are designed to be used and washed regularly. Proper care keeps them looking their best through years of daily use.

Care guide by fabric type
|
Fabric |
Wash |
Dry |
Iron |
Notes |
|
100% cotton |
Machine wash, cold or warm |
Tumble dry low |
Warm iron |
Remove promptly from the dryer |
|
Cotton-linen blend |
Machine wash, cool |
Tumble dry low or air dry |
Warm iron, slightly damp |
Gets softer with washing |
|
100% linen |
Machine wash, gentle/cool |
Air dry preferred |
Warm iron, slightly damp |
Iron on the reverse side |
|
Quilted (with batting) |
Machine wash, gentle |
Tumble dry low |
Low iron |
Do not wring — lay flat to shape while damp |
|
Oilcloth / laminated |
Wipe clean only |
N/A |
Never iron |
Do not machine wash |
Stain treatment: Treat stains on cotton and linen placemats immediately by blotting (do not rub) and apply a mild stain treatment before washing. Pre-treating before the stain dries yields significantly better results on natural-fiber fabrics.
Final thoughts
Making your own fabric placemats is one of the most satisfying and immediately useful sewing projects available at any skill level. The result is functional, beautiful, and genuinely personal: a set of placemats made in the exact colours and fabrics that belong on your specific table, in your specific home.
Start with two pieces of cotton fabric and a sewing machine. Cut, sew, turn, press, topstitch. In 30 minutes, you have a placemat that is more considered, more characterful, and more durable than anything in the same price range available off a shelf.
Make a set of four in one sitting. Make a holiday set in seasonal fabrics. Make a set as a gift: a handmade set of cotton or linen placemats, wrapped in the furoshiki style, is one of the most thoughtful and personal handmade gifts imaginable.
At All Cotton and Linen, we offer a wide range of natural cotton and linen fabrics, napkins, tablecloths, and table linens that complement your handmade placemat sets beautifully. Whether you are building a full table setting from scratch or adding handmade elements to a curated collection, natural fiber fabrics are always the right choice.











